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Top 5 Best Quietest 3000 Watt Generators

A small, quiet generator can come in handy in a lot of different ways for individuals. Some people might like having a 3000-watt generator at home in case disaster strikes.

It is also an excellent option for RV camping, parties, and anything else because it’s powerful enough to provide hours of power, while affordable enough to fit into nearly any budget.

Finding the perfect balance of power and quietness is a challenge at times, but there are some solid options available.

Here are five of the very best to consider regarding their low noise level without having to spend a crazy amount of money.

Before I address my preferences concerning these generators, I need to state that all of these options are excellent within their rights. Click the link If you’re looking for a smaller quiet generator.

This list is not ranked in any particular order. Rather, I’m attempting to offer you five of the best and quiet 3000W Generators available on the market today.



1. Generac GP3000i

Click Here for the current price for the Generac GP3000i from Amazon


  • Ultimate portable option with great power
  • Quality build
  • Stays quiet even when nearing capacity load


  • Not built for consistent use
  • Struggles occasionally with multiple large items connected

Everyone loves having a little bit of portability to count on when looking at 3000-watt generators.

The Generac GP3000i is a little on the higher side as far as price is concerned (approximately $1000). But what people get is a very lightweight, portable option with a dependable build.

An inverter generator is always going to be a little quieter, but this one takes it to another level.

It doesn’t have the same capabilities as bigger options, but that’s not what people are necessarily looking for when purchasing a product like this.

Instead, they want a generator that goes where it needs to and can provide service virtually anywhere.

Like a lot of smaller units, there is the ability to connect a pair of them to produce more power. This is great for anyone who has a bigger home or just wants to have more power in general in case something bad does happen.

There are very few generators that are as enclosed as this option from Generac. There is no telling how this would exactly play out in real-time, but it seems to be extremely durable compared to more open models.

That’s good news for people who travel with a generator like this because there is less chance of something going wrong.

The final thing that stands out is the starting current coming from this generator. By using PowerRUSH technology, it delivers 50% more starting capacity. This allows a person to do a little bit more with less in the beginning.

It’s great and very handy when power is needed quickly to get things going.

For traditional plugs or USB outlets, so many different things can be plugged into this generator without feeling overwhelmed at all. It is pretty amazing to see such a small generator handle so much.

For anyone who is looking for a great balance of portability and power, this is a great sweet spot while still spending less than $1000.

2. WEN 56310i-RV

Click Here for the current price for the Wen 56310i-RV from Amazon


  • Very lightweight and portable
  • One of the quietest options on the market
  • Easy to connect to other generators for additional power


  • Not as durable as more expensive options
  • Fuel tank a little on the low side

Overall, this might be the best value of them all. It isn’t the most powerful generator a person can find, and it isn’t the longest-lasting, but it provides a ton of features that people should really get behind.

The first noticeable thing about the generator out of the box is just how portable it is. The website says it weighs 82 pounds, but it seems even lighter than that.

This makes it perfect for anyone who is going to use the generator on the go, and most adults will be able to carry it themselves for a short amount of time at least.

There is also the option to use the wheel kit that comes with it, which is also very convenient and folds up nicely so it doesn’t take up additional space.

A lightweight generator is only really going to provide value if it is also quiet. It doesn’t make much sense to make a small, portable generator that can’t be used in small areas because it makes too much noise.

On average, the generator creates about 55 to 60 dBA of noise at all times. To put that in perspective, a normal conversation hovers around that level. It’s a pretty common sound that doesn’t distract too much from daily life.

Will a person still hear it if they really try? Of course, but as far as generators are concerned, it doesn’t get much better than this.

The generator works best for people on the go, but they can also be combined with another generator of its kind to create more power if needed.

This is more for people who own a home or business and might like the versatility of one, but the power of two or more. Just simply connect the two models to create additional power, and it is as simple as that.

Eco-mode is a nice touch from the company, although it only works when under 1000 watts. That is a bit of a disappointment because most people don’t want to sacrifice that many watts.

Expect them to possibly build on that in the future, but for right now, it’s more of a vanity thing than anything with the eco-mode.

Other than the casing of the generator not being quite as durable as other options out there, there is very little to complain about with this generator. It’s a perfect travel companion for anyone who needs shorter amounts of power.

It does have a smaller fuel tank people need to be aware of, but it’s still very easy to get plenty of use out of it. For the price, there are very few competitors out there to consider.

3. Champion 75537i

Click Here for Current Price for the  Champion 75537i from Amazon.


  • Very portable
  • Sturdy design
  • Never gets louder 60 dBA


  • The remote control is unreliable
  • Limited use due to small gas tank

At first glance, most people are going to look at this option from Champion Power Equipment as an alternative to the WEN above. They have some similarities, and they are relatively the same price for the most part.

When compared directly head to head, most people will side with WEN, but that doesn’t mean this generator is poor by any means.

First, let’s take a look at what it does well. It is another very quiet generator that can be used inside or outside.

It’s easy to get hours and hours of use out of the generator while almost forgetting that it is running. If there are visitors is over, the faint sound is completely drowned out.

It might weigh a decent amount more than the WEN, But it’s surprisingly one of the best to move around anywhere. It has strong, dependable wheels, and also handles to make it easy to grab.

Some might be skeptical about buying a portable generator that almost weighs 100 pounds, but it certainly isn’t that cumbersome.

The remote control seems great in theory, but it doesn’t exactly work as advertised. It’s a bit tough to get the right angle so that the signal picks up, and sometimes it just is not flat out work.

When the remote is not working, it forces people to operate the machine in alternative ways. It’s not always the most convenient, which leaves a lot of people frustrated, to say the least.

Other than the remote issue, this generator is a great option for a lot of people. It only has a 1.6-gallon fuel tank, which might not be enough for people who are going to be outside for a long time, but most people don’t use their generator long enough to use up the entire tank.

If a person really needs more, they probably don’t need the ability to take a generator with them everywhere. This is meant to be portable first in for most, and it provides great value no matter where it’s ultimately set up.

4. Briggs and Stratton P 3000

Click Here for Current Price for the Briggs and Stratton P 3000 from Amazon.


  • Durable construction
  • Very quiet
  • Versatile


  • Comes with just a 2-year warranty
  • The fuel tank is easy to burn through (1.5 gallons)

For a generator that will provide great value when it is needed most, Briggs & Stratton has a great solution. It might not be able to withstand the wear and tear of a normal generator or options on this list, but it’s a very quiet and compact option to choose.

The company spent a lot of time making sure that the generator is extremely compact. This helps to save space when it is most likely needed in smaller places. It also helps to reduce any excess weight, which can be a challenge when taking it all the road.

The compact design also keeps the sound down, as they can keep it under the magical 60 dB level. It has one of the slowest motors on the market, which doesn’t hurt its ability to perform while keeping things just slightly quieter.

Casing and the overall build is always something to examine when looking at a generator up close. It doesn’t seem like this has any issues whatsoever, and is actually one of the more durable portable options out there.

Even if a generator is taken care of, there is always the chance of something getting messed up. That’s why durable casing all around is more important than one might expect.

It’s one of the easiest generators to operate, and everything to be set up to be virtually on autopilot throughout the day. Just be aware that it does run low on fuel faster than a lot of others out there, as it has one of the smallest fuel tanks at 1.5 gallons.

If 3000 watts is not needed, the company does offer a very affordable 2200 watt option for people to consider. It might not be for everyone, but it’s a way to save some money along the way. It’s definitely a generator worth looking into for anyone who wants to use it anywhere they go.

5. Honda EU3000IH1A Handi

Click Here for Current Price for the Honda EU3000i Handi from Amazon.


  • It cranks up quickly and easily with electric start.
  • Super quiet when running at 1/4 capacity mode.
  • Fuel-Efficient, It has to be with such a small fuel tank!


  • The price. At around $2500, this generator is not in everyone’s budget.
  • No hour meter. The maintenance schedule is calculated in hours.

When it comes to a 3000-watt generator, very few makes can compete with Honda generators in general regarding their quietness and especially their reliability.

It’s a generator for everyone that can take care of power tools at home, small construction sites and even a campground.

Don’t let the built-in wheels fool you into thinking this generator is heavy because it’s not. At only 78lbs, Honda claimes this as their lightest 3000w generator that they’ve ever made.

It operates from 57 to 65 dBA and can run up to 7.7 hours on a single tank, depending on the power load of course. This makes it really fuel-efficient thanks to Honda’s exclusive eco throttle system

I’ve given this one five out of five stars when I bought one for myself from Amazon because of the way it totally fulfills all my requirements.

The only reason I bought it from Amazon and not the Local Honda dealer is because it was on sale and I was saving a few hundred dollars. So make sure to look for the best deal when shopping for this generator because they aren’t cheap!

There’s a reason the Honda EU3000IH1A is the most expensive generator on our list. First, it’s a honda, and we all know that Honda generators have proven reliability. If I wasn’t using my generator on a daily basis then I would have most likely gone with a much cheaper model.

The maintenance schedule is in hours based on run-time. But for some extremely strange reason, the EU3000IH doesn’t come with factory-installed hour meter. I’m a keener when it comes to maintenance, so I bought an hour meter from Amazon and easily installed it.

Other than that, this generator does not disappoint. I’m two and a half year into owning this generator for myself and it starts every time!

6. Champion 3800 Watt Generator

Click Here for Current Price for the Champion 3800W from Amazon.


  • All the technology a person can ask for out of a generator
  • Eco-friendly options
  • Portable enough for occasional trips


  • Noisier than inverter generators
  • Heavy

It’s hard to argue with the Champion 3800-watt generator as one of the best in the business. Yes, it is technically a bit more powerful than the 3000-watt threshold most of the other generators were held to, but it’s tough to leave out one of the best-sellers on the market that still provides portability.

Not only does it provide 4750 starting watts, but the 3800 running watts with nine hours of operation time makes it a perfect solution for anywhere.

People use this at home, on the road, during parties and more. It might not be as portable as some of the smaller options, but people who need that extra power will make the sacrifice.

Generators mostly seem a bit archaic, but the first impression out of the box with this option from Champion is that it has some great technology working in its favor.

From the digital screen to the touch start feature, anyone who is into technology will love those additions. It is also very pro-eco, allowing people to use clean energy at all times.

A 3.4-gallon tank should be sufficient enough for any type of activity. That’s going to provide roughly 9 to 10 hours of pretty decent usage without having to do anything else.

It doesn’t suffer operating in cold weather either, as the electrical recoil works very well. That’s actually why a lot of people who live in colder climates will purchase this generator to protect them if they lose electricity.

With all the bells and whistles, the weight and noise level of the generator is a little high.

The wheels help to alleviate the weight issue, but the only way to really deal with noise levels is to provide enough separation between the generator and where everyone is gathering.

It’s going to be pretty tough to experience any type of quiet time in the vicinity of this generator. Some might see it as a bit unfair to compare conventional generators to inverter generators, but it is something to keep in mind if silence is needed.

After giving it a try, the reviews from countless customers are definitely right. This is one of the best overall generators that has just enough portable flexibility to add to his flexibility.

The ability to work nearly anywhere is certainly appealing to a lot of shoppers. The price point is also perfect for anyone who isn’t trying to spend a ton of money on something they might only use a few times each year


All the generators on this list are quiet and dependable. It all depends on how much you’re willing to spend and how often you plan to be using the generator.

If you’re going to be using the generator on a daily basis then I would point you in towards the Honda EU3000IH1A Handi due to its long term reliability. But honestly, any one of these generators should last for many years to come.

How to Soundproof a Door in an Apartment – 9 Temporary Ways!

I’ve talked about how to soundproof a door in general and also how to soundproof a laundry room door but what if you live in an apartment, somewhere you can’t make permanent alterations? that’s what this article is going to cover, how to soundproof an apartment door.

How to soundproof a door in an apartment? The best way to soundproof a door in an apartment is by using weather stripping around the inside of the door frame. Also installing a door sweep will help reduce noise from coming inside the apartment.

That are a few other ways however to soundproof an apartment door so let us get into it! I will also go into more details about what type of door sweep you should buy and also what type of weather stripping works best for this type of application.

9 Ways to Soundproof an Apartment Door.

It doesn’t really make much of a difference if you’re trying to soundproof an interior apartment door or an exterior one because you probably won’t want to make any permanent or costly changes. All these tips will apply to all types of apartment doors.

1. Weatherstripping

Of course, Im going, to begin with, weatherstripping because it is one of the easiest, cheapest and effective way to help block sound from coming through the cracks around the doorway.

That’s the first thing you have to asses when soundproofing any doors, are there any gaps around the door and if so, how large are they. Well, it doesn’t really matter how large they are because even the smallest crack would make even a solid core door relevant for noise blocking.

The easiest way to see if there are any cracks around any door is by turning all the lights off and only having light in the other room with the door closed. As you’re standing in front of the door, can you see light around the door trying to creep through? If yes then a special type of weatherstrip will seal that gap once and for all.

weatherstripping is not only made to block cold drafts from coming in, but they are also wonderful at blocking noise as well.

The weatherstripping I recommend and often use if called KELIIYO Door Weather Stripping. Let’s face it, there are so many different types of weatherstrips on Amazon but this one is a really good product in relation to the price at around $10, depending on if it’s on sale.

Click HERE for the current price of the Keliyo door weather stripping.

This weatherstrip is spongy and will allow the door to close tightly giving a great seal. It’s also self-adhesive which is a great feature that will make installing it a breeze.

All you need to do before you stick this weatherstrip around the inside of the door frame is to wash and dry the surface thoroughly. After that, you’re good to go!

2. Rubber Door Sweep

A door sweep is another way to soundproof a door in an apartment because it is easy to install and they are relatively inexpensive.

They are also easy to remove if you decide to move out. At least you’ll be able to bring it with you and reuse it at your next residence.

It can be very confusing trying to figure out which type of door sweep would be best regarding soundproofing since there are so many options to choose from online.

Click this link for the door sweep I recommend and often use from Amazon. This one has a metal strip that screws into the door and a rubber bottom that makes contact with the floor and gives a great seal. You should avoid door sweeps made from plastic because they don’t tend to last very long.

Also, brush door sweeps because these are not great at blocking noise.

You can easily fill the holes left by the screws with white caulking if you decide to remove the door sweep and bring it with you when you move. Caulking will make the holes disappear and save you from paying out parts of your damage deposit.

3. Quilted Fiberglass Panel

Another great option is installing a quilted fiberglass panel against the door. This would also be called a “soundproof blanket” but it is more geared in soundproofing a door since you can buy one that would match the dimensions of a door perfectly.

This mat can not only bock noise but will also absorb a lot of the reverberation and echos bouncing off the walls. This panel can lessen the strength of sound by at least half. It can turn unbearable noise inside a room into a simple nuance.
What makes this fabric unique is that the inside is filled with two inches of fiberglass fibers which are proven to help block noise.
An important tip if you decide to go with this option is to use velcro to attach it on the door frame as opposed to the double nickel-plated brass grommets. You will get a tight seal if you velcro the panel into place. Hanging it by the grommets will certainly leave a crack on all sides letting noise though.
The best velcro to use for this application would be the Strenco 2 Inch Adhesive Black Hook and Loop Tape from Amazon. 
The only way to get the velcro to stick to the panel material is to sew it into place. You could staple it onto the panel but let’s face it, it wouldn’t look that good, sowing it on not only look good but would also be durable.

4. Seal All Cracks and Gaps

One tube of acoustic caulking will do the job and will only cost you between fifteen and twenty-five dollars. Of course, this method is permanent but it’s certainly not something the landlord would notice.

There are many different types of acoustic caulking online and at your local hardware store but the one that I always turn to is Green Glue Noise Proofing Sealant (not to be confused with Green Glue Noise Proofing Compound).

This type of sealant is flexible and will not crack as it ages. Turn the light off in the room you’re standing in and turn on the light on the other side of the door. As the door is closed, do you see any light leeching through? If so then you can certainly seal those gaps with Green Glue.

One great tip for you if you’re going with this option is to seal around the electrical outlets with the sealant you have left. You will be surprised at the size of the gap between the wall and the electrical outlet box once you remove the cover from your electrical outlets.

Sealing the door will help but sealing the electrical outlet boxes will also help reduce a few decibels of annoying noise coming from the other side of the wall, especially if it’s the hallway.

5. Moving Blanket

Moving Blankets

If you ever bought moving blankets to help you move from apartment to apartment then bring them out of storage because this could be a free fix for you!

As you probably know, moving blankets are pretty thick, they have to be so it can protect your valuables. Well, hanging a moving blanket in front of the door can also help block noise using the velcro method I talked about earlier.

Of course, using a moving blanket might not look as good as using a fiberglass panel built to fit the dimensions of your doorway but it will defiantly help to soundproof the door.

I would suggest using the thickness of two blankets instead of just one. You can find a verity of low cost moving blankets on Amazon.

6. Use a Rug

Something you might not have thought of that is simple is placing a rug in front of the door in order to seal the gap at the bottom of the door.

You might already have a thick rug at home that you can cut to size. Ideally, it would be great if you could even slide a bit of the rug underneath the door to give it a good seal.

Another positive of using rugs, in general, is that they are wonderful at absorbing sound and will improve the acoustics of any room, especially on wood floors.

7. Reduce Noise From the Opposing Room

A way to lessen the amount of sound traveling through the apartment door is to minimize the noise from the other side of the door.

The room with the most noise inside an apartment building is the hallway. Sometimes the building owner cheats out on dressing up the hallway and leaves empty with full of echoes.

If this is the case then you could talk to the landlord and see if they could hang paintings on the walls and maybe even add a rug if the floor is noisy. They could buy a ton of paintings from Costco and wouldn’t cost them that much for what they would get.

The worst your landlord could say is no so you might as well ask!

8. Soundproof Blanket

A soundproof blanket from Audimute (Amazon) would also work well at blocking some of the noise.

This type of blanket will also work on windows and is easy to remove and put back into place. They are a bit pricey at around $125 but they are well worth it and can be used for many years.

The dimension of this blanket is 34.5″ by 82″ and is a hefty twenty pounds heavy and works for a variety of noise problems. The material used works great for both acoustical enhancement of a room and also to reduce the transmission of noise.

Many blankets on the market are built solely for acoustic purposes but this one is dense enough to help block noise by a great deal! I would recommend having this blanket using industrial velcro for a better seal. You can certainly use the built-in grommets to hang the blanket but will not work as well as using velcro to stop noise from passing through the door.

The material for this product is primarily recyclable and is made entirely in the US.

9. Soundproof Pad

A soundproof pad (Amazon) works like a door sweep but is less “permanent” and will in some cases stop more noise from coming through the bottom of your door. The unique advantage in having a soundproof pad over a door sweep is that you can place the pad on the top of the door and not only the bottom.

The soundproof pad can be positioned wherever the crack around the door letting noise come through. It is constructed using the same types of material used in construction site noise barriers, Polyester wool, sound-insulating felt, PVC, EPDM rubber and iron powder for optimal sound absorption.

One thing to note however is that the soundproof pad will have to be reapplied every time the door opens and closes. If there is any crack at all, its ability to reduce sound is greatly reduced. When you apply it to the door, make sure to apply it with a downward pressure to make sure there are no cracks along the floor.


There are many ways to soundproof a door, of course, you could opt to replace the door all together with a solid core door, but this would be an expensive endeavor and a permanent one.

The only way I would suggest a solid core door is if you had the storage capacity to store the hollow core door and reinstall it before you move out so you’re able to bring your new solid door to your next residence. Otherwise, stick with simple and less costly alternatives.

Green Glue vs Mass Loaded Vinyl – All the Facts You Need to Decide!

Soundproofing can be a pretty tough thing to get just right. There are a lot of different ways to go about it, and two common options are to use either mass loaded vinyl (Full In-depth Article) or Green Glue noise proofing compound and sealant. Both have their supporters, but which option is best?

Below is a closer breakdown of the two options people have when soundproofing a room, studio, vehicle or virtually any enclosed area. Making a smart decision now can save a lot of money in the future.

Mass Loaded Vinyl Current Price from Amazon.

Green Glue Noise Proofing Sealant Current Price from Amazon.

Green Glue Noise Proofing Compound Current Price from Amazon.

What is Mass Loaded Vinyl?

Mass Loaded Vinyl, which is also referred to as MLV, is a type of vinyl sheeting material with metal particles embedded. It is used to add mass to walls, ceilings, and flooring to help with soundproofing an area. The most common place to put MLV is between two layers of drywall.

It has been around since the 1960s, and it does help a lot with various types of noises. Made up of calcium carbonate and polyvinyl chloride, it is very versatile, allowing it to be effective nearly anywhere. It handles vibrations very well, completely eliminating some sounds.

Many compare MLV to sheet lead because they work in similar ways and cost about the same. It seems like more and more people are moving towards MLV between the two, but there are also other options available that are helping people soundproof. Since it comes in sheets, it’s pretty easy to install and move on with the construction.

What is Green Glue noise proofing compound?

Green Glue noise proofing compound is used in a lot of the same ways as MLV. It is put in between two pieces of drywall, reducing noise and eliminating any leaks outside of the room as well.

It is a viscoelastic damping compound, turning sounds into a small amount of heat. It tackles all types of sound frequencies, which is ideal for a home, office or studio set up.

A lot of people use Green Glue either in new construction, or when doing a renovation. Since it can go between any two layers that are rigid, there is a lot of versatility with the product. People have been using the product since launching in 1989 as an alternative to a lot of mass options that can’t form quite as well to its surroundings.

How do the two products compare?

Both MLV and Green Glue noise proofing sealant is geared towards helping individuals isolate specific areas and provide silence from the outside world. This is used in a lot of ways to help with audio recording. It is also used by people who might just live in noisy areas. Not only is it important to keep sounds from coming in, but sounds inside from leaking as well.

The two options have been around for a while, but Green Glue has really started to gain traction over the last few years. Several studies have been done to compare how the two stand up against each other, and it’s surprising to some people to see the cold hard facts.

According to tmsoundproofing (Source) Green Glue has the edge when it comes to overall soundproof capabilities. A lot of that might come down to its versatility to get every single crack that is possibly exposed. Available in sealant form, it is especially easy to get into corners and provide complete coverage.

Green Glue does especially well when dealing with low frequencies. This is an area that has been a struggle for MLV for decades now, and it took this sealant to figure things out a little better. That means anyone who has a home theater can use Green Glue and really notice a difference over a similar setup with MLV.

This is not to say that MLV is not a quality option for certain locations and purposes. There are still a lot of people who love MLV, and it’s ability to add mass so quickly. It’s never in a different form, so it holds up in more extreme temperatures throughout the year.

People can achieve an STC of 55 with Green Glue, which is slightly higher than using MLV in any particular way. MLV is usually either hanging limply or in the center of a sandwich with drywall. The STC is in the low 50s for either option. That might not seem like much of a difference, but every little bit matters when doing proper soundproofing.

How much do the two options cost?

Another advantage for Green Glue is that it is very affordable for those people who are on a budget. It can get expensive in a hurry to use MLV, which is why it is more commonly found in studios instead of homes. MLV is becoming a little more affordable thanks to all the competition out there, but it’s just very difficult to justify the cost if the results show that Green Glue is outperforming MLV.

Green Glue is marketed heavily as the most affordable and effective way to noise-proof something. It’s also easy enough to use that do-it-yourself repairs are easy to pull off. There are easy instructions included with orders, plus several videos online for people to watch for tips and tricks on how to get the most out of the product.

Are the products safe to use?

Green Glue is entirely water-based, which makes it non-toxic and non-carcinogenic. There is a mild odor to green glue, similar to other latex products out there. It is not a dangerous odor that will cause any issues, other than the rare chance of a slight headache from a foreign smell. It is safe to use on an entire home or building if that is what a person wants to do.

As for MLV, it’s a little more complicated, but it is considered a safe product as well. High levels of elemental barium have the potential to be toxic, but there is not nearly enough of it in MLV to cause any issues. For that reason, it is also labeled as a non-toxic option for people to go with. No one should fear using it or being exposed to it for long periods of time.

The installation and application process is a little more hands-off with the Green Glue compound since a gun can be used in tight places. This particularly comes in handy for quick fixes, making it very easy to safe to make minor repairs. This makes it not only safer but a little less messy as well.

What can’t MLV and Green Glue do?

When people use MLV and Green Glue, it is important to know its limitations. Both are compounds that must be used between two layers of building materials. They are not permanent adhesives, so it doesn’t work well when using soft layers such as plastics, padding, glass, etc.

It is also not recommended to use either outdoors where the temperature can get extremely hot or cold. Green Glue, in particular, will fail to work as properly designed. MLV holds up a little better, but both don’t promise to be as effective.

Where can MLV and Green Glue be purchased?

Green Glue is available through select retailers and online through MLV is a little more readily available at just about any local home improvement store, plus and other online retailers as well.

Both are a little more inexpensive when purchased online, which is definitely something to consider. There is the convenience factor of shopping locally, but with time to spare, it makes sense to save money by placing an order.

Why does Green Glue win this head-to-head comparison?

Any person looking to soundproof an area wants something that is effective, first and foremost. People are always willing to spend money as long as it works. Green Glue comes in at a lower price point than MLV, and it outperforms it head-to-head.

How does it all work in Green Glue’s favor? It comes down to the dampening behavior of Green Glue. It cuts down the vibration with drywall and takes care of resonant behavior. Instead of being something that can flop around in a wall cavity, Green Glue is more form-fitting and ready to handle anything thrown it’s way.

Results are never guaranteed, but that is another reason why it helps to start with the cheaper option. If Green Glue does not live up to expectations, there is a chance to try something else and not be out a ton of money. Trying MLV first could lead to a lot of money wasted, and overall disappointment.

Green Glue has quite a few companies trying to mimic what they offer, but it is still a very unique compound that has helped a lot of people put the finishing touches on an area that needed soundproofing. It’s worthy of the hype, and the best value on the market right now in this category. MLV still does a solid job, but Green Glue is on another level as far as helping people out and keeping projects under a certain budget overall.

How to Soundproof an Attic Floor – 10 Easy DIY Ways

Soundproofing an attic flooring may appear a little bit difficult at first. However, it’s actually extremely similar to soundproofing any other flooring in a residence or apartment. The only potential distinction is the sort of sound that you’re attempting to Soundproof. That is what this article will tackle!

The method of soundproofing will depend on what type of noise you’re attempting to block or absorb.

There are two main types of noise that you might want to tackle while soundproofing any type of floor. Airborne noise and impact noise.

If you want to block airborne noise you will need more density. Impact noise might require special soundproofing material to absorb the vibrations on whatever is causing the impact inside the attic.

Let’s begin with the top 10 ways to soundproof an attic floor once and for all! The 10 methods are divided into 6 primary ways of soundproofing the attic floor.

1. Add an Extra Layers of 5/8″ Drywall

If you’re looking to soundproof the attic floor then you might as well begin one level down with its ceiling.

Whatever the reason for soundproofing the attic floor I’m guessing that the main reason is to mitigate the amount of noise coming through the attic floor causing chaos through the entire house. That might be a bit dramatic but either way, you want the floor bellow the attic to be quieter or vis versa.

That is why you should begin one-floor bellow and soundproof the ceiling by adding an extra layer of 5/8″ drywall. If you’ve gone through some of my content you will most likely notice that I use this soundproofing method a lot, the reason for this is because it works!

The material you will need;

  1. 5/8″ Drywall
  2. Two tubes of Green Glue Noise Proofing Compound for every sheet of drywall
  3. One tube of Green Glue Noise Proofing Sealant should be enough
  4. Light fixture electrical box extender
  5. And of course drywall screws

Step 1— Unhook the lights and install a light fixture electrical box extender. You will do this because of the gap you will create after installing an extra layer of drywall. Make sure to shut off the appropriate breakers before disconnecting the light.

Step 2– Have the proper measurements for your drywall and prepare them by placing some green glue noise proofing compound on each sheet of drywall you will be using. You will require two full tubes for every sheet of drywall. Lay the green glue in a random pattern all over the side of the drywall that will in contact with the ceiling. Click here the learn more about green glue.

Step 3– With the help of another person, install your second layer of drywall on the ceiling. If you’re going to be doing this alone you can use the help of a drywall hoist. You can rent them at your local hardware store or buy a one from Amazon (Link for Drywall Hoist) for personal use. These things work great if you’re installing drywall alone!

Step 4–  Grab a tube of Green Glue Noise Proofing Sealant (not to be confused with “compound”) and insert it in a caulking gun. This type of soundproofing caulking will help block noise from coming through any holes or gaps that you might have on the ceiling.

Place some sealant around the lighting electrical box to seal the gap between the box and the drywall. You should also seal around the ceiling where the ceiling meets the wall. This type of sealant will not crack over time due to aging.

Step 5- Now this step is not necessary but could help reduce a few extra decibels of noise coming from the attic floor with the help of acoustic paint. Plant the finished ceiling with acoustic paint to give you an added advantage against noise. Click here to learn more about this type of soundproofing paint. 

2. Lay a Subfloor in the Attic

Adding a floor to an attic will not only help soundproof the attic but will also increase storage space or create a new room. Before you begin laying subfloor in your attic, you need to make sure that the floor can support the additional weight.

The floor can be built using plywood, OSB, and MDF panels. This will increase the insulation by reducing both impact and airborne noise. Plywood is certainly the most affordable material to go with but OSB is still very affordable.

The best quality and better sound insulator are indeed the MDF panels.

Step 1 Call a professional to find out if your ceiling can withstand the extra weight. The reason for a professional is that they will be able to tell you if your ceiling trusses can handle the extra weight of not only of the subfloor but the weight of people walking around or storage. The ceiling can cave in if the structural integrity of the house is compromised by the added weight on weak attic trusses.

Call a contractor in the area and find out if this soundproofing method is worth pursuing or just go down the DIY route.

Step 2- Now that we are going forward with adding subfloor in the attic, its now time to go ahead and begin. So for the second step is to watch the video below to be better informed on how to install a subfloor the right way.

3. Acoustic Mineral Insulation

Another good way to improve the soundproofing effectiveness of your subfloor is to take out the old insulation that’s in the attic and replace it with Rockwool Acoustic Mineral Wool Insulation. This type of insulation works great as Acoustic insulation or as a soundproofing material.

Rockwool is also cost-effective and Very High NRC Rating. It is also water-repelling, hydrophobic and has a class A fire rating. 

This soundproofing method is a bit more work but will give you some of the best results in soundproofing the attic floor.

Here is a video that talks more about acoustic mineral wool and how to install it.

4. Use Green Glue Tape & Compound

One good way to make a subfloor an even better sound isolator is by tapping the top of the subfloor with green glue soundproofing tape. This is a soundproofing method that you don’t hear often.

That’s too bad because its an easy and cheap way to improve the soundproofing effectiveness of your subfloor.

What makes this type of soundproofing tape effective is that it helps absorbs and deaden the noise generated between the floor joist and the subfloor from people walking around the attic.

Here is a good video explaining exactly how this type of material works.

Now to the Green Glue Noiseproofing Compound. This will be done in the same fashion as the two layers of drywall on the ceiling but this time we will place the green glue compound in between two layers of subfloor.

One sure way to make the attic floor much quieter is to place another layer of flooring on an existing subfloor. Use two full tubes of green glue compound for each sheet of plywood.

This will act as a good sound barrier and will also add some thickness to the floor which will, in turn, reduce the amount of noise coming from the attic.

5. Place Some Solf Material on the Attic Floor

Soundproofing Attic Floor Using Interlocking Mats.

If you’ve properly soundproofed the attic floor you will want to look at ways of reducing impact noise even more. One way to reduce impact noise is to add some soft material on the attic floor.

One great thing about adding a soft rug (Amazon) or interlocking floor tiles (Amazon) is that it does not only help mitigate the noise from footsteps, it will also help combat echo.

Soft material like rugs will help absorb all sorts of noise emanating from the attic itself and help reduce echo.

A lot of people use rugs to help combat impact noise but not a lot of people know much about interlocking floor tiles.

These types of tiles are made of foam matting with a thin wood finish on the top. This will not only help regarding noise reduction, but it will also help keep the attic warmer than it would be in the winter months saving you on your heating bill.

They are very easy to install and remove if you want to someday change it up. I would try to cover as much area as possible. The more you have on the floor the quieter the attic will be.

6. Install Floor Floaters

When it comes to soundproofing your attic floor, floor floaters (Amazon) does a great job, especially by reducing impact noise.

Floor floaters are also known as joist isolators and are made of very strong rubber. The reason they also go by the name of joist isolators is that you install them between the joist to isolate and block vibrational noise or any type of movement coming from the joist themselves.

You can install these yourself in no time! All you need to do is place them under each joist correctly.

For best results, place each floor floater at a distance of between 16 to 24 inches.

Judging by the number of floaters you get for the price, these are a highly effective product.


There are certainly many ways to soundproof an attic floor but if you’re working on a tight budget, I would begin with the floor floaters. If you have a few hundred dollars to spend I would definitely look at building a second layer of subfloor on top of the existing one using green glue noise proofing compound.

Feel free to take a look at our other articles to learn many different ways on how to soundproof a ceiling to help you keep the attic as quiet as possible.

You should also visit our YouTube channel for many wonderful tutorial videos on soundproofing. Whether your soundproofing a room in your home or the vehicle you drive every day, we’re here to help!


How to Make a Refrigerator Quieter With These 6 Simple Tips

A noisy refrigerator can be really irritating, particularly during the night. Whether you have a brand new or old fridge, it’s quite certain that some type of noise will be present. Since your refrigerator needs to be working all day and night long, it is only natural that the noise coming from it will be constant.

In many cases, most of the noises your fridge produces are just normal, and they actually prove that your fridge is operating. However, in some cases, there are certain adjustments you can perform in order to reduce the noise coming from your refrigerator or the compressor. So, here are a few tips on how to make a refrigerator quieter.

What Are the Reasons for a Noisy Refrigerator and How to Fix Them

Before you start fixing an issue, you first need to identify the problem. Here are some of the reasons your refrigerator might be making some annoying noises.

  • Hissing or water dribbling noises are mostly associated with the natural flow of oil or refrigerant inside of a compressor.
  • A pulsating noise is usually the result of your compressor or fans inside your refrigerator trying to perform well.
  • A vibration noise may indicate that your fridge is not properly leveled to the floor. Loose handles or door can also, be the cause of some rattling noise coming from your fridge. Screwing those parts of the fridge back in place will usually help you get rid of that problem.

Fixing Noise Coming From the Back of the Fridge

If you find out that most of the noise comes from the back of your refrigerator, you should have a closer look at three basic elements of your fridge: the condenser fan, the compressor, and the defrost timer. The condenser fan is usually situated near the far back end of your fridge, and it is usually covered with some panel. If dust or lint has been stacked between the blades of the fan, then it is only normal that some type of hissing noise can be heard during the day.

In order to deal with such an issue, you first need to unplug your refrigerator and locate your condenser fan. With the use of a soft brush, carefully clean each blade of the fan until there is no sign of any debris thereby. If however, there is no dust present, then it is probably time you consider changing the motor of the fan.

The compressor is usually quite silent in modern fridges. A noisy compressor is a really bad sign for your fridge, and in most cases, it means that you need to replace it as soon as possible. Besides, we should not forget that a compressor is associated with the gas and pressure inside your refrigerator. That being said, the noise coming from that device is probably an indicator that bad gas maintenance or high pressure is present in your fridge.

If you find out that the noise comes from the defrost timer, then the best idea is to totally replace that piece before some more serious damage comes to your fridge.

1. Make the Refrigerator Compressor Quieter

A compressor is usually made within the noise range of 70 dba and 90 dba. A noise level below 75 dba is a good indicator that your compressor is quite silent. That doesn’t mean, however, that it does not make the least noise.

Compressors are usually quite expensive. For this reason, replacing them should be a final choice if you don’t have any alternatives. Fortunately, there are some effective ways that can help you make the compressor of your refrigerator quieter.

The first solution is to place some rubber on the motor of the compressor. Rubber is a popular sound insulator material, capable of both absorbing and dampening noise. If you place some rubber grommets (Amazon) on the motor of the refrigerator, you will help the vibration that is produced by the operating motor to get absorbed.

Another idea is to wrap the part of the compressor that is probably responsible for making all that noise: the motor. Use some type of sound deadening mat to wrap the motor and reduce the noise that it produces. Mass Loaded Vinyl is what I would personally use because it does not only act as a sound deadner but also acts as a sound blocker.

Alternatively, you can build a small room around the compressor with the use of a soundproof material. That solution is a bit more complicated, but it’s really effective nonetheless. If you choose to use such a technique, you need to have two basic things in mind.

The first one is to use high-quality sound deadening panels. This will ensure that proper insulation will be achieved. The second one is to provide proper and sufficient ventilation to the area you are going to build around your compressor. Otherwise, you risk the life of your compressor that may die of overheating.

2. Install an intake silencer

Indeed, one of the primary sources of noise that come from a refrigerator compressor is the intake. In order to reduce the level of noise coming from that part of the compressor, you can install a silencer. A combination makes those devices of two main parts: a silencing device and an efficient air filter.

Can I extend the intake part outside the house?

A cheap yet quite effective solution to dampen the noise that comes from your compressor is to place the intake part outside the house. How can you achieve that? By using a pipe to extend the intake and put it just outside your home.

Surely, you need to have the refrigerator placed in a suitable area that provides the necessary outdoors space if you wish to try out that solution. Although it’s not as effective as the use of a soundproof material around the motor, it can still help you considerably.

3. Consider Changing the Refrigerator’s Place

The place where you have put your refrigerator can affect a lot the amount of noise that reaches you. A simple yet effective solution would be to change that place. Ideally, choose a dent in the wall that can be effectively covered with some acoustic heatproof foam deadner. There is a variety of those panels in the market nowadays, depending on the amount of money you wish to spend.

After you have made the necessary measurements depending on the size and shape of your refrigerator, you can put those acoustic deadeners on the walls and ceiling that surround the dent in order to reduce the sound that comes from your refrigerator.

It is important to have in mind that the role of those deadeners is double: they can absorb to a great extent the annoying sound that comes from your fridge and they can dampen vibrations that are probably coming from the refrigerator’s compressor, as well.

4. Soundproof Your Refrigerator From the Inside

Another good solution would be to soundproof your refrigerator from the inside. Although there are many materials you could use, the most well-known is the so-called mass loaded vinyl (as I mentioned above). Being a material that can effectively block the transmittance of the sound around a place, it can definitely deprive the sound of coming out of your fridge.

For better results, you could place some mass loaded vinyl around the motor of the fridge, as well. If you wish only to use this type of material, you could also, place it on the wall that surrounds the refrigerator, instead of putting an acoustic deadner. Placing a thin piece of the vinyl underneath your fridge will ensure that no sound escapes from there, as well.

5. Regularly Clean the Compressor and the Fans

A dirty fan or compressor can cause a lot of unnecessary noise. In order to deal with that problem, you need to clean the dirt and dust from those two parts of your fridge every time they look dirty. You should also, check the coil and see if it’s working properly.

6. Use Vibration Pads Under the Refrigerator

In case you discover that your refrigerator vibrates or makes some shaking sounds, it is probably time for you to consider the use of some vibration pads. Those pads will help keep your fridge stable, and they will reduce the amount of sound that is created due to unnecessary vibrations.


Reducing the noise that comes from your refrigerator can make a huge difference in your everyday life. Living in a quiet house will ensure that you receive proper rest and that you can sleep soundly after a long and tiresome day. For this reason, if you discover that your refrigerator is making a lot of noise, you need to start identifying the source of the noise immediately. That will help you take proper measures to deal with the source of the problem.

In most cases, there are various things you can do on your own in order to make your refrigerator quieter. However, there is always the case that something really bad has happened to your fridge that is responsible for all this irritating noise. If such is the case, you may need to consider the advice of an expert before you decide to get rid of your fridge and purchase a new one. After all, spending as little unnecessary money as possible is everyone’s goal nowadays.

How to Soundproof an Unfinished Basement Ceiling – 4 Cheap Ways!

The best time to soundproof any room of your home is when the house is under construction. It’s much easier to soundproof the inside of a wall or ceiling then trying to soundproof it after the fact. That’s what this article will be about; I will show you a few different ways to soundproof an unfinished basement ceiling.

If you’re thinking of converting your basement into an apartment, then it’s crucial that you soundproof the ceiling. This is not only from a potential noisy tenant but also from your footsteps. You do not want to be tiptoeing in your own home in an attempt to not disturb the people living under you.

One thing to consider since your basement ceiling is open is to remove the ductwork for your heating system and install in-floor radiant heating. The reason for this is because the sound will easily travel through the metal ductwork and will make it much harder to soundproof the basement ceiling fully.

It is entirely understandable if this is too much work for you so don’t worry. There are still things you can do to block most of the noise coming from the floor above.

Material Needed To Soundproof an Unfinished Basement Ceiling

Soundproofing Tools You Will Need!

You will need several recommended soundproofing material to get the desired results. Here is a list of material that I often use while soundproofing a basement ceiling, or any other ceilings for that matter. This entire article can be applied for any ceilings in your home, just as long as you’re in the construction phase.

  • Green Glue Noise Proofing Compound; Green Glues noise proofing compound is a excellent soundproofing product that creates a tiny air void between two layers of drywall. By having an air void, you’re helping the soundproofing effectiveness of the wall or ceiling that you’re attempting to soundproof.
  • Green Glue Noise Proofing Sealant; This is yet another great product from green glue that works a bit differently than the compound. The sealant is like weatherproofing caulking but will remain pliable through time and will not crack. Caulking will usually crack due to aging and will let noise through. You should use green glue’s sealant around light fixture boxes to seal as many gaps and cracks to avoid noise coming through from the level above.
  • 5/8″ Drywall; One important thing you should invest when soundproofing an unfinished basement ceiling is 5/8″ drywall. The added thickness and weight versus the standard 1/2″ drywall will do wonders in terms of soundproofing. They also have other added features that you can learn by clicking this link.
  • Rockwool Insulation; Rockwool Insulation is much better soundproofing insulation than the standard pink fiberglass. It is indeed more expensive, but I would strongly encourage you to at least install this sound dampening insulation on the walls and ceilings that are most prone to have noise come through.
  • Resilient Channel; Resilient channel is also significant when attempting to soundproof an unfinished basement ceiling. This material will create an air void between the basement and the floor above. I go into more details on this soundproofing material in this article.

These four soundproofing products, among a few others, of course, will be all you need to combat noise from attacking your ears while in the basement.

1. Two Layers of Drywall

One way to save you tones of money is to have two layers of 5/8″ drywall coupled with a layer of Green Glue Acoustic Compound in between. The reason Green Glue works great in this type of soundproofing job is that it basically creates a tiny air void between the two layers of drywall.

You will need to apply the Green Glue in a random zig-zag pattern, so you get some everywhere. You will also need an extender for your electrical boxes (fixtures) because of the added thickness of the second layer of drywall.

The reason it is important to use 5/8″ is because they are much denser than the standard 1/2″ drywall that is used in most homes. Depending on how the floor above is constructed will depend on the amount of soundproofing you will receive from this first method. So a suitable soundproofing method would be no insulation and two layers of drywall using Green Glue.

There is a tool called a drywall lift that you can use to install drywall without the help of another person easily. If you’re renovating alone, then this would be something to look into.

You can find a professional drywall lift for rent at your local hardware stores. Not all hardware stores will carry this item, however, so make sure to call them and find out. You can also buy a less expensive and also lighter drywall lift for residential use from Amazon for less than 200 dollars.

When using a drywall lift, make sure the white paper side of the drywall is facing the lift so when you install it will be facing down. Believe me; you don’t want to go through all the trouble of lifting a thick sheet of drywall only to find out that you have it facing the wrong side.

2. Drywall Plus Insulation

To add some extra soundproofing to your basement ceiling, you will need to add the two layers of drywall with the Green Glue in between and also add some insulation.

There are two ways of going about this process. First is the standard pink fiberglass insulation.

Back in the day, you needed gloves and a mask to install fiberglass insulation, but most of the product on the market today aren’t as harmful to your skin. If you’re unfamiliar with in-wall insulation, then feel free to wear gloves and a mask. Don’t forget to wear your safety glasses also!

The second option you could use regarding insulation would be sound deadening insulation by the name of Rockwool (Amazon Link). Rockwool is acoustic mineral insulation that is great as acoustic insulation or as a soundproofing material.

Each unit of mineral wool insulation are 8lbs of density, making it very cost-effective with a very high NRC rating. It is also a water-repelling, hydrophobic with a class A fire rating. You can also use these rigid boards for making acoustic panels and bass traps if you have some leftovers.

3. Acoustic Tiles

A third way to help drown some of the noise coming from the upstairs level of an unfinished basement is by installing acoustic tiles. Installing tiles will give you easy access into your ceiling if you need to get in there for future home repairs.

Acoustic ceiling tiles are great if you already have a suspended ceiling in your basement. You will get much better soundproofing with a dense acoustic versus the cheap fiberglass insulated ceiling tiles from the past. You might pay more money for these types of ceiling tiles, but you will get a much better noise reduction coming from the upstairs. They also look much better than the cheap tiles.

Follow the link for the current pricing on our recommended acoustic ceiling tiles available from Amazon.

4. Resilient Channel

Another great method to help soundproof an unfinished basement ceiling is with the help of a resilient channel.

A resilient channel is a thin metal channel that is specifically designed to improve the sound insulation of drywall, sheetrock, plasterboard walls, and ceilings by quite a large margin compared to the use of insulation only. The channel will effectively isolate drywall from the framing studwork. This will leave an air gap that will result in the weakening of sound waves substantially.

Installation of the resilient channel to an unfinished basement ceiling or even a wall is an easy and effortless process. The thin metal channel only measures 1/2″ in thickness and will provide you with much better soundproofing effectiveness when comparing it to similar products that are available in the market.

One thing to note here when installing the resilient channel is that the acoustic qualities of this product can improve when applying a thin layer of Absorbent Tape to the flange of the drywall mount.


There you have it! These four ways to soundproof an unfinished basement ceiling should get you well on your way in making your basement much quieter than it is currently.

Let us know in the comment section if you have any questions on this topic and also don’t forget to visit our new YouTube Channel for more DIY soundproofing projects!

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